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The wind picked up shortly after dinner last night, whipping the entrance into the La Mer Channel into a snow tossed froth. By the time we passed through the end of the channel the weather had lifted somewhat, but not the wind. A bouncy Zodiac cruise along the shores of Petermann Island allowed us to find Gentoo and Adelie rookeries as well as blue-eyed shag, surrounded by snow masses made green and red by algae. Then moved to the sheltered side of the island and became enchanted by a fabulous sculpture garden of irregulars. One with a blue bowl inside it was claimed by a leopard seal who gently asserted his territory while satisfying his curiosity.
I had been hoping for calm waters and bright color in Plenneau Bay. We were greeted by high winds and cloudy skies. The Zodiac ride to the middle of the bay was challenging. People got wet. We put cameras away until we entered the leeward side of a large iceberg with a glorious soaring arch. Then put them away again, until we reached the shelter of a large cluster of icebergs and gratefully found we could work relatively unimpeded if we were cautious of the wind tunnels that cut through them. Arches and holes and bowls and overhangs and corridors and towers thrilled us with endless variety. Like snowflakes, no two icebergs are ever identical. More than three hours later we realized we had lost track of time. Our Zodiac driver hadn’t; Metta, was excellent; resourceful and calm under pressure. Before we headed back to the boat we were surprised to find two leopard seals who took great interest in our Zodiac, looking and swimming all around it, nudging it, and finally giving me a farewell tap from behind with a fin.
The seas picked up as we headed out to sea to drive south of the Antarctic circle my mid morning.
Find out about upcoming Antarctica digital photography workshops here.
